Dial Herco

Archive for February, 2010

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These are the wooden members attached directly to the foundation walls upon which the rest of the building sits.
The sills of today’s homes are nearly always built with pressure-treated lumber — that is, lumber treated chemically to repel moisture. This keeps the sills nice and dry, unaffected by the moisture that inevitably migrates up the concrete foundation. But pressure-treated lumber has come into general use only in the last fifteen years, so if you’re looking at a house older than that, you should pay special attention to the sills.
The problem is that if sills are too close to the ground or exposed to frequent drenching by improperly installed rain gutters or clogged drainage pipes, they rot. When they rot, they lose their load-bearing ability, compress under the weight of the house, and cause many problems.
The list of symptoms of rotted sills is as long as your arm:
sagging floors, windows that won’t open or close smoothly because their frames are out of square, porches that have slipped away from horizontal. Carpenters generally love the problems posed by rotted sills and are astonishingly skillful at fixing even the most hopeless-seeming cases, but it’s major surgery. Normally the exterior siding will have to be removed and replaced because it too has rotted. Then the sheathing will also need to be removed, exposing the studs. If the damage isn’t too severe, the studs can be saved and nailed back to the new sill, but occasionally the rot is so extensive that the studs themselves have to be cut back and bolted to new stud ends.
Besides removing the rot and replacing the sills, studs, sheathing, and siding, the carpenter must also, of course, diagnose and correct the cause of the problem. Was it a leaking root? Was it the grade around the house? It doesn’t make much sense to go to the expense of repairing the sill problem if you’re not going to take steps to prevent a recurrence.

The tanks are full. I’m ready to head up to Castaic to chase bass, but The King is still holding court. So I ask, “George, other than transmission work, what’s the most common repair you see here?”
“The most common repair we see now is usually related to maintenance. For example, lately we’ve been seeing a tremendous number of people with pre-1990 carbureted vehicles that are hauling pretty good loads. These vehicles aren’t set up for the newer fuels, some of which act as cleaning agents in the fuel tanks. And that can result in plugged fuel filters.
“It’s actually pretty preventable if you do regular maintenance, if the filters were changed before the trip….”
“They wouldn’t have to make a stop here, would they?” I say.
George smiles. He’s seen it all up along The Grapevine.
The intricacies of towing can fill an engineer’s notebook with fine print, but for most of us it boils down to a simple formula. if you want maximum towing or load-hauling performance, match the vehicle to the weight, keep the transmission cool, and perform regular routine maintenance. Basic advice. For my money, it’s worth a king’s ransom.

Mayer also believes that The Grapevine claims many vehicles “that are inadequately geared.” By this he means that vehicle owners are running the wrong size of differential gears.
Let’s say the truck is fitted with a rear-axle ratio of 3.08:1, which is fairly common. This gear ratio ensures good fuel economy but may not deliver enough power to the rear wheels for optimum towing performance. The end result is a lagging engine and a hot transmission—a deadly combination.
But a truck equipped with a lower axle ratio (4.10:1, for example) can pull a load more easily with less heat buildup. This is especially important if your truck pulls heavier loads such as big bass boats. The trade-off is higher fuel consumption, which is still cheaper than rebuilding a transmission.

“Many people don’t fully understand how heat fries a transmission,” Mayer says. “The transmission will heat up fast while you’re towing because the automatic transmission fluid is moving very quickly through it. Heat breaks down ATh and that leads to premature transmission failure.”
Under normal operating conditions, the temperature of the ATP is about 170° E Stop-and-go traffic can raise the temperature to 250°
F—and that’s without a towing load. In towing conditions, it’s not unusual to get up to 270° E.
“If the temperature gets up to 300° l” Mayer tells me, ‘you better stop at the next gas station, because you’re not going to go much farther than that.You’ve lost it all.”
The easiest and cheapest way to solve this problem is to install an auxiliary transmission oil cooler, which helps ensure that the temperature of the AlT stays in the best operating range. For some reason, many tow vehicle owners resist this option, even though the cost is miniscule ($60 to $120) compared to a rebuilt transmission (as much as $2,000). Another inexpensive transmission-saver is a temperature gauge so you can see when the transmission is headed for trouble.
“I definitely recommend an auxiliary transmission oil cooler,” says Mayer. “Remember, the cooler the transmission oil runs, the better. You’re definitely going to hit yourself in the wallet if you don’t have it.
“I also strongly recommend a drain plug on the automatic transmission—if you can find one.We’ve learned this from vehicles that get heavy usage.When the transmission oil is drained between filter changes, the transmission is a lot less prone to breakdown and failure.”